A) PIPE INSTALLATION FOR EXISTING CONSTRUCTION - FROM THE ROOF DOWN
1. It is important that you have all the necessary tools with you in the roof space to save you avoidable trips through the manhole and up and down the ladder.
2. In order to determine where to drill the holes for the branch lines into the top plates, establish a reference point for the inlet valve by measuring from the centre of the intended inlet valve location to the nearest comer of the room in which the inlet is to be located. Find this corner from the roof by peeling back the insulation to expose the top plate.
3. Measure the same distance that you have measured at floor level from where the top plates form that corner (remember whether you measured from the inside or the outside of the corner). You should now be directly above the intended inlet valve location.
4. Drill a 52mm~55mm hole into the centre of the top plate (provided this will not compromise structural requirements). After you have done this, you can visually check using a flashlight whether the space between the studs is free of obstructions. If a noggin blocks this space, use the wrecking bar to tap it down gently at its ends until it drops to the base of the wall. Alternatively, drill holes in it using drill bit extensions. NOTE: it is extremely important to verify that the wall does not contain any electrical wires or water pipes that may be damaged by the drill bit.
5. Measure from the top plate to the inlet valve hole below, cut the pipe and feed it through the hole in the top plate. If, due to inadequate headroom, the entire length of pipe cannot be inserted in one piece, then shorter sections can be cut and glued together with the use of couplings and fed into the hole in the top plate section by section until it reaches the inlet valve opening. Alternatively, if the roof is tiled, you can remove some roof tiles to create extra headroom.
6. Install mounting plates and inlet valves according to the Mounting Plate Installation section.
7. You are now ready for the installation of the main line. The main line connects the entire system from the inlet valves to the power unit. It carries the low voltage wire along its entire run. During the planning process you should have carefully checked for possible obstructions along the intended run, such as double joists, ducts, electrical wiring or water pipes that will need to be bypassed. Locating the main line directly above a branch line should be avoided as it will result in dust collecting in the bottom of the branch line and falling out every time the inlet valve is opened.
8. Glue main line fittings to the exposed branch pipes above the top plates. Make sure each fitting points in the direction of the power unit. Measure and cut the pipe lengths for the main line and glue into hubs of fittings leading from Branch to Branch. Apply glue to both the end of the pipe and the inside of the hub, then twist pipe into hub until firmly seated. Glue will set instantly.
9. Fasten low voltage wire to pipe with cable ties or duct tape approximately every 6' (150mm) and at each elbow, which will prevent drooping and possible damage to wire. Electrical tape may be used if double-wrapped around wire and pipe. For the proper way of splicing refer to the section on low voltage wiring.
SPECIAL APPLICATIONS: HOUSES WITH SLAB FLOORS AND FLAT ROOFS
Houses with flat roofs and slab floors require all inlet valves to be installed in exterior walls and branch lines to be run outside of the house. The piping system can be run underground or under the eaves of the house. If the power unit is to be mounted outside, it must be housed in a weatherproof cabinet that has adequate air vents. Locate and install the inlet valves in much the same way as for closet installations. Use a tight 90o elbow to keep the pipe close to the exterior wall. Seal the edges of the hole in the exterior wall with silicone. If the piping system is to run under the eaves, the pipe must be supported by pipe straps at least every 2m. On vertical sections hide the low voltage wire behind the pipe.
B) PIPE INSTALLATION FOR EXISTING CONSTRUCTION - FROM SUBFLOOR UP
1. Simply reverse the procedure of the branch line installation, as your main run will be located below instead of above the inlet valves. When the main run is installed between, or on the underside of the floor joists, the risers and drops can be concealed in a variety of ways. Air returns, crawlspaces and the undersides of staircases can serve as accessible spaces through which the main run can pass.
2. USING RETURN AIR DUCTS FOR ACCESS
Remove air return grille near the inlet valve location. Remove sheet metal to expose the required working area between studs. Drill a hole horizontally through stud. Pull sufficient wire up so that is reaches the inlet valve. Cut length of vertical pipe so it projects into grille opening. Seat into hub of the 90° elbow below. Slip a 90° elbow over the exposed upper end of vertical pipe in the direction of inlet valve location. Cut length of horizontal pipe to size (from hub of 90° elbow into hub of 90° elbow that protrudes from rear of mounting plate). Push wire and horizontal pipe through hole into stud and secure wire temporarily outside the inlet valve opening. Glue 90° elbow to mounting plate at a 90° angle (so it points in the direction of hole in stud). Pull wire through mounting plate and insert mounting plate into opening in wall with a tilling motion (as per illustration 7 of Mounting Plate installation diagram). Push assembly over pipe. Connect wire to lugs on inlet valve. Reinstall grille and sheet metal cover.
3. It is important that the low voltage wire is fastened to the branch lines, as it must be fed through at the same time as the pipe. Install all the branch lines in the same manner, making sure that enough length of the branch line pipe protrudes above the base plate for connection to the main line fittings.
4. GAINING ACCESS TO PIPE RUN THROUGH CARPETED FLOOR Pull carpet off tack strips. Roll back carpet and underlay to expose the area under which you intend to run the pipe. Within this area, pull out all nails with which the floor has been fastened to the floor joists. With a circular saw, cut along the nail holes, along the centre of the floor joists, setting the blade so it cuts completely through the floor. At each end of both cuts, cut at right angles to these cuts until the un-cut portion of the floor can be completely lifted out, leaving an opening that permits you to work unencumbered between the floor joists. After you have completed your work, insert the cut out panel back into the opening and nail down into joists, preferably at a slight angle towards the centre of the joists to avoid missing the joists. Spread the underlay back into place and stretch the carpet back onto the tack strips.
5. Insides of cupboards are a useful place to run pipes for access to inlet valves and upper or lower floors as shown at right.
6. With all the branch lines connected to the main line, continue to install the main line to the power unit using pipe saddles at approximately 2m intervals. Connect pipe and low voltage wire to power unit. Plug power unit into a nearby receptacle and your central vacuum system is now operative.
C) PIPE INSTALLATION FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION - ROUGH-IN
1. The rough-in installation is much simpler and faster than the previously described installation for finished construction, as the entire working area is still fully exposed and more easily accessible. This is also an ideal time to request the installation of a separate power point for the system.
2. The ideal time to install the system is before plastering but after all Heating / Cooling, Electrical and Plumbing rough-ins are completed, as it is easier for you to work around these ducts and lines than for the other trades to work around ducted vacuum pipes. Ideally, the main run should be run along the centre of the house from the sub-floor up. If the house is built on a concrete slab, you will have to work from the roof space down.
3. For the inlet valve Installation follow the mounting plate installation section. When you are ready to install the power unit, follow the power unit procedure above.
4. When the system rough-in is completed, leave sufficient low voltage wire and pipe protruding near the intended power unit location so that the final connection to the power unit can be made easily and quickly without creating unnecessary extra work when the power unit is installed.
5. Use the fittings as shown in the illustration at right to set up a second storey inlet take-off from branch line drop.
6. FULLY CONCEALED INSTALLATION Consult your local building code before drilling the holes for the pipes run through the floor joists. The building code will inform you at what distances from the edges of the floor joists you will be able to drill without reducing the bearing strength of the joists. The 90° sweep T must be turned completely on its side (90° to its axis) and connected and glued to branch from inlet. After completed installation, the underside of the floor joists may be completely covered.
7. Turn the 90° sweep T straight up and join 90° elbow by inserting a 36mm length of pipe. The 90° elbow must be turned 90° to the sweep T. Use the increments on adjoining hubs to achieve an accurate 90° angle. Connect and glue to branch from inlet.
MOUNTING PLATE INSTALLATION